Navigating Cefalu

The maze-like streets of Cefalu offer glimpses of the sea through doorways to one side and the craggy tops of the surrounding mountains to the other. The hostile landscape means development backwards from the seafront is minimal and

the old town centre with its cobbled streets and shuttered balconies retains an authentic, intimate atmosphere.

Hole-in-the-wall gelato shops jostle for space with bars, restaurants and souvenir shops. Set a few streets back from the seafront, is the Duomo, a Norman cathedral facing on to an open piazza lined with cafes and bars.

A key attraction of the town is of course the beach and there’s a choice of the public beaches in town or the beach clubs along the seafront to the west where many hotels are located. The soft sand, clear water and warm sun prove too tempting on our first day and we while away a few hours on the beach before strolling into town. Here we discover wine bar Enoteca Rossorubino, and our first taste of Sicily’s white, Catarratto.

Back at our hotel we are welcomed by a Sicilian feast with a traditional buffet. Tables are laden with bright Mediterranean vegetables, homemade breads, grilled meats and local delicacies such as arancini.

When I saw the name Hotel Tourist on our itinerary, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but the three-star property just across the road from its own private beach is a fantastic base. The staff can’t do enough for us and we sample traditional food and entertainment, soaking up views of the old town of Cefalu bathed in rosy light at sunset.

Theatre of luxury

The journey to our second stop, Giardini Naxos, involves a coastal road with stunning views across the sun-dappled sea interrupted only at Messina, the north-eastern tip, when mainland Italy comes into view.

Just before our destination we reach the town of Taormina, firmly set on the tourist map thanks to its historic sites including the Greek theatre and hilltop position with sweeping views of the coast and Etna smoking gently in the background.

The town is decidedly upmarket, home to two Belmond properties as well as other five-star hotels and boutiques. Unsurprisingly there are plenty of tourists on the streets but when we reach the Theatro Antico, Greek in style but predominantly Roman built, we realise it’s hardly surprising. The theatre’s walls are beautifully preserved and a perfect example of the Greco-Roman culture that characterises much of Sicily. Our eyes are drawn down the stone steps, past the stage and out to the vast natural backdrop. The views are a knock-out and our only disappointment is that we aren’t around for one of the opera events that takes place on selected days in late summer.

Yet winding our way down the hill to our hotel we are welcomed by a wide, flat expanse of beach, which we can walk straight on to from our hotel. We have our own Greco-Roman surrounds at the Hellenia Yachting Hotel where the opulent decor features marble columns and balconies lined with white balustrades. Our spacious terrace almost hangs over the beach and looking back towards the mountains we can see the twinkling lights of Taormina up on the hilltop.

Back to nature

Leaving the motorway to rattle down a dirt track is somewhat unexpected but on arrival at our third and final stop we are enlightened. La Corte del Sole is a rustic masseria (farmhouse) set in the Vendicari Nature Reserve near Noto. Converted from a working estate into a 34-room hotel just 10 years ago, many of the original features have been woven into its current incarnation. In the breakfast room-cum-bar we find the old olive and grape presses and there are glass panels in the stone floor offering a glimpse into the old cellar.

From the intimate pool area there are views across the nature reserve which guests can take a short stroll through to reach the beach. Dinners are enjoyed out on the delicately-lit terrace in summer and the kitchen serves up an array of Sicilian dishes, some with a twist to incorporate seasonal local ingredients.

We tear ourselves away from our tranquil surroundings to explore Noto and are glad to have made the effort. The baroque town has Unesco status and there are historic sites and monuments at every turn from Noto Cathedral to small churches tucked away in the narrow streets.

Our thirst for the island’s history is growing and we factor in time to stop off at Syracuse on our way to Catania airport. Like much of Sicily, the city underwent development by both the Greeks and Romans and the historic site on the outskirts of the city is a fascinating place to visit with a Greek theatre, Roman amphitheatre and caves such as Ear of Dionysius.

It’s the perfect way to wave farewell to the island – well almost – there’s always time for one last gelato.