When the cruise manager of Uniworld’s SS Emilie summoned passengers to the main lounge for an important briefing about our Danube sailing, I had a sneaking suspicion the week-long schedule was about to change.

I’d joined the ultra-luxury line’s newest ship in Vienna only the day before, when guests had already been speculating whether the Danube’s low water levels would affect our voyage to Nuremberg.

With the river being at its lowest level in decades, I knew river cruise lines were being forced to drastically change itineraries. But as the worst-affected stretch was through eastern Europe, where the waterway has fallen to levels not seen since 1996 – I rather hoped we would escape the worst.

One crew member told me that in his home country of Romania, the waterway was so shallow in parts people could walk from one side to the other. As a result, some river cruise ships have been stranded north of Budapest unable to sail eastwards, causing major disruption to operations.

While not as adversely affected, the Danube’s low waters have been causing issues through Austria’s Wachau Valley with recorded depths of just 1.5 metres, instead of the usual two metres at this time of year.

So there was a feeling of inevitably as SS Emilie’s captain, Malte Buinning, told us that low waters between Vilshofen and Regensburg meant this section of the river would be unnavigable.

“We are monitoring water levels every day, but if no rain comes, we cannot sail there,” he said.

'We'll still make the most of it'

Cruise manager Edward Askew confirmed that SS Emilie would adopt an alternative programme for the rest of the cruise and, as things currently stood, would be unable to sail to Nuremberg, where it is due to finish on Sunday. 

“We still have a cruise. It will, of course, look slightly different – but we will still make the most of it,” he said.

Sara Macefield

Passengers were resigned to the news, especially having seen how low the waters were through the Wachau Valley around the town of Spitz. I’ve sailed this stretch a few times, but have never before seen stony sections of riverbed so exposed.

Some guests were disappointed they wouldn’t cruise to Nuremberg as the city was one of the reasons they’d picked this Vineyards and Palaces of the Danube itinerary, which was new for Uniworld this year.

The rejigged excursion programme ensured most original port stops were still featured, including Regensberg albeit by coach. Nuremberg was replaced by Linz where a full-day jaunt to Salzburg was offered.

This pleased Sound of Music fans, while others were heartened by the 30 euros per person that Uniworld promised to cover lunch in the city. 

There’s no denying that the disruption to this week’s cruise was disappointing, but the way Uniworld’s crew have seemlessly reworked the schedule and communicated the changes quickly and clearly to guests is admirable.